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Three Squares: The Invention of the American Meal, by Abigail Carroll
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We are what we eat, as the saying goes—but we are also how we eat, and when, and where. Our eating habits reveal as much about our national identity as the food on our plates, as food historian Abigail Carroll vividly demonstrates in Three Squares. Reaching back to colonial America, when settlers enjoyed a single, midday meal, Carroll shows how later generations of Americans abandoned this utilitarian habit for more civilized, circumscribed rituals, trading in rustic pottages and puddings for complex roasts, sides, desserts, and—increasingly—processed foods. These new foodstuffs became the staples of breakfast and lunch in the late nineteenth century, and even brought with them a new eating tradition: snacking, which effectively transformed the American meal into one never-ending opportunity for indulgence.
Revealing how the simple gruel of our forefathers gave way to cheese puffs and moon pies, Three Squares fascinatingly traces the rise and fall of the American meal.
- Sales Rank: #222657 in eBooks
- Published on: 2013-09-10
- Released on: 2013-09-10
- Format: Kindle eBook
From Booklist
This history of American eating habits exposes how both native and foreign influences combined to shape popular folkways and attitudes about feeding ourselves over the course of the day. The first settlers had little choice but to eat much the same as Native Americans. With passing generations, colonists more and more adapted Britain’s familiar fare, including pudding and afternoon tea. Following revolutions on both sides of the North Atlantic, French ideas came to define the expected elements of a proper meal. Foods appeared on tables in courses, and words such as soup, dessert, and even picnic entered common English vocabulary. The greatest transformations of American mealtimes followed the Industrial Revolution’s regularizing of the workday, kitchen mechanization, and the rise of industrial food processing. The evening meal became the day’s most important since workers lacked time to return home in the middle of the day. Carroll also contributes to contemporary debates over family meals and snacking. --Mark Knoblauch
Review
Concord Monitor
“A fascinating, readable history.”
Kirkus
"An information-packed history of American eating habits… [An] enjoyable history of American food culture."
Mark Pendergrast, author of For God, Country & Coca-Cola and Uncommon Grounds
“In Three Squares, Abigail Carroll has filled a gaping hole in our fetish for food histories. There are books on peanut butter, pumpkins, pancakes, milk, fried chicken, chocolate—the list goes on—but now we have the big picture. Learn here how the Industrial Revolution, television, and Mad Men affected how, when, and what we eat. You’ll never look at breakfast, lunch, dinner, and between-meal snacks the same way again.”
Bee Wilson, author of Consider the Fork
“I was enthralled by this account of how radically America’s meals have changed over time, from dinner pails to TV dinners. This vividly written book makes you see that the American way of life at any given moment has been formed by meals. We meet the ‘stander-uppers’ who ate quick cold working meals at lunch counters and the nineteenth-century critics who feared that six o’clock dinner would ‘destroy health.’ Three Squares shows that the tradition of an evening family meal, taken at a table, is a relatively recent innovation; but one with the power to improve not just our health but our vocabulary. ‘Family meals, it turns out, are more beneficial to children’s word banks than play or having adults read to them.’ With warmth and scholarship, Abigail Carroll persuades us that much depends on breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as all the snacks in between.”
Barbara Haber, author of From Hardtack to Home Fries: An Uncommon History of American Cooks and Meals
“As Abigail Carroll so skillfully explains, the pattern of American meals—three squares a day—is not a static entity but rather a social construction that has changed over time. By using imaginative sources and asking pertinent questions, Carroll traces not only the evolution of meals but of the people who have consumed them.”
Andrew F. Smith, author of Eating History: 30 Turning Points in the Making of American Cuisine
“Why do Americans eat what we eat at breakfast, lunch, and dinner? Abigail Carroll examines the American meal from colonial times to the present in Three Squares, providing delicious insights along the way. Three Squares is superbly researched, delightfully written, packed with insights—and easy to digest!”
Warren Belasco, author of Meals to Come: A History of the Future of Food, and Visiting Professor of Gastronomy, Boston University
“Combining scholarly rigor with lively storytelling, Abigail Carroll offers a fresh look at American culinary history. Resisting the nostalgia often associated with discussion of family meals, Carroll argues that American dining rituals are relatively modern and are constantly evolving to meet contemporary needs and values. This masterful synthesis will delight both professional scholars as well as newcomers to the exciting new field of food history. Highly recommended!”
Sandy Oliver, author of Saltwater Foodways: New Englanders and Their Food at Sea and Ashore in the 19th Century
“With Three Squares, Abigail Carroll gives us a very long view of American dining habits, beginning with life in colonial times and ending in the 21st century. With sometimes startling descriptions of the ad hoc eating that occurred on either side of a main noon meal in our earliest years, we witness the impact of away-from-home work in industry and commerce that appropriated the middle of the day and left us with ‘cold, quick, and cheap lunches.’ The story of breakfast cereal and snack foods and the erosion of the properly set, middle-class dinner table with everyone minding their manners caps this fascinating narrative.”
Anne Fishel, Associate Clinical Professor of Psychology, Harvard Medical School, and consultant to The Family Dinner Project
“You will never look at your three meals a day, or snacks throughout the day, the same way after you read this fascinating, well researched book. For anyone interested in food, this book is a must. It tells the historical stories and elucidates the business forces that underpin our current eating practices.”
About the Author
Abigail Carroll holds a PhD in American Studies, and her writing has appeared in a variety of journals and publications, including the New York Times. She lives in Vermont.
Most helpful customer reviews
11 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
Food for thought
By Deborah Dickerson
Carroll does an excellent job of engaging and informing the reader on the history of our meals and the role of snacking. She covers the evolution of our eating habits from colonial America through the Industrial Revolution up to the present, as well as the impact of advertising surrounding the culture of eating and American's love affair with pastries of all kinds (and especially pie). I recommend this book to those who care about eating (every one) or enjoy American history. This has been one of my favorite reads of 2013.
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
A generous serving of history
By David Weinstock
MThree Squares: The Invention of the American Meal
I haven't enjoyed a food book so much since MUCH DEPENDS ON DINNER by Margaret Visser. In THREE SQUARES, Abigail Carroll has brought together thousands of facts about American foodways, most of them new to me, and woven them into a coherent and fascinating story. Now I know the lost history of toast at breakfast and what was so wondrous about Wonder Bread. (It was sliced!) Carroll lays bare the anti-French politics of Thanksgiving dinner, and recounts recurring waves of food fads, theories, and movements that shaped how we eat and how we talk about it, long before this moment's controversy about the Neolithic diet. THREE SQUARES is a good read. No recipes, but I'll keep it in my kitchen.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
From Three Squares to No Squares
By DPHBrooklyn
This review was originally published on 205Food.com:
The term "square meal" may have originated in Britain, but its meaning is thoroughly American. In an 1856 newspaper advertisement in the Placerville Mountain Democrat, a restaurant called the "Hope and Neptune" averred that it had "secured the services of an excellent cook, and can promise all who patronize us that they can always get a hearty welcome and a 'square meal'…"
Over time the meaning of a "square meal" became more expansive. Such a meal was a good value, a proper and appropriate meal, filling, simple, but containing a variety of foods necessary to good health. The two words "square meal" pretty much summed up Americans' attitude toward food -- for most, food was simply ample and high quality fuel.
As Abigail Carroll shows in her excellent book, what we eat and how we eat has been shaped mainly by changes in our capitalist economy and to a lesser extent by moral and health concerns. But in America, the sheer love of food and eating has not really been a major part of the equation.
For America's first settlers food was scarce, and the colonists had to adapt their customary eating habits to circumstances. New foods (squash, corn, vegetables) necessarily substituted for meat and grain. The settlers may have deplored Native Americans' propensity to eat several meals a day without any set schedule, but the new Americans were pretty crude themselves. Tables and chairs were lacking. Meals were often eaten without utensils. Family members may have dined together, but there seems to have been little conversation. As the author notes, "they remained mainly focused on the task at hand: refueling."
As the colonists became more settled and prosperous, meals became more regular, table implements (and manners) improved, and meat became a much more important part of meals. The opening of the frontier and the construction of the Erie Canal also meant more wheat production, and with the invention of the cookstove (replacing the traditional open hearth) there was an explosion of baked goods.
This was prior to the industrial revolution, when most Americans were farmers, and the heavy work of farming meant that a substantial mid-day meal was a necessity. But as industry boomed, and more and more Americans lived in cities, the large mid-day meal became an impossibility for many. Evening dinner gradually became the big meal of the day, and it assumed a special role, a time when the entire family assembled. As Carroll puts it:
No longer laboring together as an economical unit, family members needed a new way to bond, and dinner fit the bill. With husbands, wives and children inhabiting separate worlds during the day…coming together around a table in the evening took on heightened significance.
With this ascendance of the dinner hour and increasing affluence, most Americans purchased dining tables, plates and cutlery, while the more well-to-do acquired dining rooms and servants. In the early part of the 1800s, Charles Dickens found that "Nobody says anything, at any meal, to anyone." By the end of the century there was a complete turnaround. Families were expected to converse, and some even did so while dining à la française, "using a vocabulary of silverware and salad greens."
The sanctification of dinner necessarily meant a downgrade for lunch and breakfast, but snacking was particularly reviled. To snack was to disrespect the dinner hour and demonstrated one's lack of moral fiber.
As in other areas of life, Victorian Americans made the simple act of eating a moral issue. Alcohol was disparaged, of course. But even pastries and cookies were viewed with suspicion, sources of temptation, possible gateways to the "love of the bottle." This notion that certain foods are "moral" or "immoral" is still with us, albeit in a more subtle fashion.
Following the elevation of the dinner hour, the second major change in Americans' meal-eating was the reform of breakfast. For the earliest Americans breakfast was a casual meal, a large snack, often involving leftovers from the previous day. But as we became more affluent, breakfast burgeoned, becoming large and meat-centered. Unfortunately, the "traditional farmer's breakfast was no longer appropriate to a modern lifestyle, at least not for the majority of the middle class." Increasingly sedentary, we could no longer work off the food, and gastrointestinal problems became widespread.
One solution was to swap meat for grains. But while the first breakfast cereal, "Granula", was invented as early as 1863, it was not until late in the century that Will Kellogg, Charles W. Post and Henry Crowell began their push to completely overhaul the traditional breakfast, replacing lamb chops and eggs with boxes of cereal. Using the most modern packaging (Quaker Oats), advertising extensively (in one ad Post Grape Nuts saves a woman's life!), and playing to the public's concerns about germs and good health, these cereal makers were the forefathers of our burgeoning snack manufacturers.
Today, three square meals exist only in the military and in prisons. Even the concept of a single square meal is more and more exotic for many households. Busier work lives, fewer stay-at-home moms, the increasing power of advertising and television, and incessant efforts by manufacturers to "redeem the snack" have led to fewer and fewer square meals. The ideal of a solid family dinner, Carroll notes, "reached its zenith in the 1950s and has declined gradually ever since."
Somewhat paradoxically, while the cereal pioneers led us away from fatty high calorie breakfasts, their work helped establish our junk food nation. Some 90% of Americans snack today (about 60% in the 1970s) and we are more likely to snack than to eat breakfast. The boom in processed food has meant less interest in meals, poorer nutrition, and increased obesity.
In this history of the American meal alcoholic beverages (and beverages in general) are a sidelight, not much discussed. One wonders if those poor historical families had anything to drink with their meals! The book does include some interesting splashes of information though:
• A shortage of beer may have led the Pilgrims to disembark at Plymouth rather than their original destination, the Hudson River.
• Before prohibition, pretzels were a frowned-upon food (by the middle and upper classes, anyway), because they were sold by impoverished immigrants and a staple of saloons.
• Apart from banning wine sales, prohibition also put a dent in fine dining (as if America needed one). French restaurants simply could not survive without the sale of alcohol.
Three Squares: the invention of the American Meal is a dense and rich book. Carroll has synthesized a tremendous amount of information and presented it very compactly, with imagination and flair. There are enough leads in this book for a hundred dissertations. And apart from Carroll's vibrant text, who can resist chapter titles like "Why Colonial Meals Were Messy"?
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